|Mom circa 1959|
|Simplicity 4560 with a crinoline|
|Dress without a crinoline|
|#2 - my second crinoline|
|#3 - my daughter's crinoline|
Crinoline DirectionsThese will be very basic instructions, and material amounts are gauged to make a crinoline that will fit me - 5'7" tall with 41" hips. Your mileage may vary. I will try to answer any questions if I can in the comments. I may try to update with some pics if necessary. I am not an authority on crinolines, I just found what worked for me. The important thing to getting a pleasing silhouette with your crinoline is the ratio between tiers; 2-to-1. For a fuller crinoline, add more yardage but keep your ratios between tiers the same. You can probably add more tiers for a longer (such as floor length) crinoline.
Materials to make a 27" long crinoline:
- 1.4 meters or 1 1/2 yards of stiff crinoline fabric
- .6 meter or 5/8 yard cotton broadcloth
- 7 meters or 8 yards 1" satin ribbon
- 1" wide elastic
- Upholstery thread for gathering
- Cut the crinoline across the 45" width into six 9" strips. NOTE: in hindsight I'm not sure if the crinoline was 60" wide, in which case you will need to do the math for fabric yardage requirements
- Sew two strips and four strips respectively together into tubes. To join the strips, butt the short edges together and overlap by 3/8". The pieces will lay flat with no seam allowance to stick out. Sew with a coverstitch or sew a double seam.
- Fold the ribbon in half lengthwise and press. Encase the bottom edge of both crinoline tiers with the ribbon and stitch in place close to the open edge of the ribbon.
- Mark top and bottom of the middle tier and the top (unbound edge) of the bottom tier into four equal sections.
- Sew on the gathering thread. Using a wide zigzag stitch, sew over top of a length of upholstery thread to the top edge of both tiers, being sure not to catch it in the stitches. The zigzag stitches create a channel for the upholstery thread to pull through. Stop the machine at each of the four markings and cut the upholstery thread, leaving a tail. Leaving the needle in the fabric, lift the pressure foot and place a new length of upholstery thread centred under the pressure foot (with a tail behind). Repeat for all sections.
- Pin the top of the bottom tier to the satin bottom of the middle tier, matching the four markings and overlapping the crinoline over the satin. Find the centre of each section of the bottom tier and pin to the centre of the middle tier. Repeat finding the centre between pins until there are pins every 1-2 inches.
- Holding one end of a single piece of upholstery thread in each hand (so as not to pull it out), pull to gather the bottom tier. The pins will help it stay in place and will simplify evenly spreading out the gathers. Baste the bottom tier to the top tier and coverstitch OR sew a double seam.
- Cut the top tier broadcloth 45" wide by 21" long and fold in half lengthwise. Press.
- Sew side edges to form a tube.
- Fold back in half lengthwise (so it is a double thickness tube), wrong sides together. Sew an elastic channel at the folded edge, leaving an opening to insert the elastic.
- Mark the bottom edge of the top tier into four sections.
- Repeat step 6, except rather than overlapping the seam, join the right sides together as a standard seam. Sew a 5/8" seam. Press the top tier and seam towards the top.
- Fold under a 5/8" seam allowance o the opposite side of the top tier. Pin over the first seam to encase it. Topstitch, leaving an opening to insert the elastic.
- Insert the elastic, sew together the ends and topstitch the opening closed.
And that's it! Even with all the little tricks my final crinoline took me a good six hours, but that's much better than the 40 or so hours I sank into the first one. Please post a pic or a link to yours if you make one!