Off the Clock

 EDIT: After I posted this lengthy experimentation I tried something I saw in this youtube video by Johanna  (she is a wealth of information on coverstitch machines); I threaded the machine in the order of looper first and then the needles left to right and "flossed" the threads to seat them properly in the tension guides.  It made a huge difference.  I don't know why I am surprised, as my old Brother serger was finicky about how it was threaded.  I was able to go back to the original recommended settings on the picture guides on the machine AND do the hems without any stabilizer added.  I've done 2 tops this way since this original post and they turned out beautifully. __________________________  It looks like I've had my Janome coverstitch machine for about 7 years now, so it's about time I learned how to use it properly.  I have had really hit-and-miss results when doing hems on knits, particularly thin knits.  And apparently I'm not alone...

  I again used Color Pop Rayon Knit Print - Daisy - Coral for this top.  I've written about it in the post for NL6735 . This is another of the patterns I got from my MIL.  I thought I would try the knit shell.  There are only two pieces to this pattern; no bands or facings.  Instead they have you turn under a 3/8" hem at the neck, armholes and bottom.  I used my usual size 14 for big 3 patterns.  The It is definitely a short top.  I need to wear it with higher waisted pants.  After adding my usual 1" to the length I lost 1/4" by having to use a 5/8" hem instead of 3/8" due to my coverstitch issues (separate post).  I've added another inch to the pattern for the next time I make it.  It does have a center back seam for subtle shaping.  I made my usual size 14 for big 4 patterns and it has a bit of a loose drapy fit under the bust.  I found it quite flattering in this lightweight knit.  The only issue is the hem.  ...

  I used Color Pop Rayon Knit Print - Daisy - Coral for this top.  From the website:  "This medium weight rayon spandex jersey is very soft and drapable, it is perfect to sew stylish tops, dresses and skirts."  It is 95% Rayon/5% Spandex.  It calls for hand washing but we all know that's not how I roll so I prewashed the fabric and preshrunk it in the dryer.  To be honest it washed up beautifully.   If nothing else prewashing helps to see what a bad job the fabric stores do when cutting fabric!  It had clearly been stretched out of shape and then cut that way.  To be fair to my local fabric store this bolt was on the "discontinued" rack and therefore may have been shipped in that way.  Fortunately I had bought 2 meters so I had lots to work with.  I also made NL 6034 which will get its own post. So back to NL6735, yes I know I have a dedicated posted for this pattern but I had to do a write up about the new neckline.  Afte...

  I was going through my patterns when I ran across some that I got from my MIL.  There are three New Look patterns of coordinates; two for woven and one for knits.  All three have a version of a shell that caught my eye.  Of the two patterns for wovens one has a standard horizontal bust dart and the other has a French (oblique) dart.  As I've never tried a French dart I thought that would be a good project for today.  The pattern looks like it has never been taken out of the envelope.   I traced it out and chose the brown and blue lightweight rayon from the stash.   I used this fabric before  to make  Butterick 5493 .  This fabric drapes beautifully and as I just had a meter left it was destined for a shell of some sort. I made my usual size 14 for big 4 patterns and the only adjustment I made was to add 1" to the length.  I do feel it fits me perfectly.  The armholes aren't too big and it sits nicely on the sho...

  Excuse the wierd expressions, my husband was making me laugh lol.  I fell in love with this pattern as soon as I saw it and immediately started looking for fabric.  I ended up going with Amata Tie Dye Batiks 100% cotton voile in Deep Cobalt.  This is a wonderfully soft lightweight cotton that feels comfortable on the skin and drapes beautifully.  This last point is important because there is a lot of fullness in that skirt and I didn't want to look like a billboard or overheat!  The pattern calls for 370 x 150cm, but I ended up using 3m of the 5m I purchased. Like others that have posted on Facebook about this pattern I was initially confused about the dimensions of the fabric for the tiers.  At a first glance the pattern says a code and then "X 1" twice, and my brain took that as 1 piece for the tier but written in two languages.  As a Canadian we often have things written in English and repeated in French so this was a default assumption on my...