Sunday, June 29, 2014

Vogue 1204

Vogue 1204
I ended up moving the beltloops closer to the sides
Well I finally did it - I finally finished my first pair of jeans.  This is Vogue 1204, designed by Issey Miyake.  I wasn't sure which pattern to go with for my first try but I settled on this one after seeing Ruth's version at CoreCouture.  She did a really good review of the pattern and answered some questions I had - such as do the front pockets gape when you sit down (no not really) and what is the rise (medium, not too low - the front sits about an inch below my belly button).

I'm pleased with the pocket topstitching
I decided to use a brown pinstriped stretch denim for the first pair so that I could focus on fit and construction without worrying about any distressing techniques. I have watched Angela Wolf's Jean Tutorial but I was still feeling nervous about this. I think I cut the fabric out almost two months ago but was having trouble getting started.

I used jean topstitching thread with a 3.5 stitch length for the topstitching but I think next time I will work with standard thread and use a triple stitch. I got tired of swapping the thread back and forth so I ended up using Betty for all the standard stitching and Phoebe for the topstitching. I did have problems with tension on both machines, probably due to the multiple layers.

Mallory can't let me take a pic without photobombing
So what's the verdict? I am really glad I chose to use the brown pin-striped denim for this pattern. I think I would prefer a "standard" jean front pocket with blue denim. I was going to leave the back pockets plain (another reason for using this fabric for the first pair) but decided on a whim to just go for it. I'm sure I've seen this pocket stitching somewhere in internet-land because I had been searching for ideas a couple of months ago and for whatever reason this one must have stuck with me. I am very happy with the fit of these jeans. This is size 14 (the same as I use for tees) with no adjustments other than adding an inch to the length - my standard adjustment. I feel that I could wear these in public without feeling self-conscious. The pattern was a little tricky in a few places, but that is probably just due to my lack of any recent experience with pants. Once I reread it a few times (and referenced some ready-to-wear jeans for comparison) I was able to make it work.

Button and fly
Would I use this pattern again? I am very happy with the fit and the rise. I do have McCalls 6610 which has the "standard" pockets, but other reviews I have seen look like these have a much higher rise than what is shown on the pattern. I will probably do a comparison between the two patterns and perhaps come up with a hybrid for my next go-around.


Nothy Lane said...

Wow. You did a fabulous job on these jeans. Nice work.

Anonymous said...

Great job. I can see the student will be teaching the teacher. Love the pockets stitching.

Jacqui said...

Thanks or the nice comments! Of course there are a number of flaws but nothing I can't live with.

Silknmore said...

Great jeans - beautifully constructed and an amazing fit.

Jacqui said...

Thanks Silknmore. I give credit for the fit to Vogue - other than my usual length adjustment I made the pattern as is.