Friday, July 25, 2014
Another NL 6735
I know I made a dedicated post for New Look 6735, but I just had to show off this fabric. It's one of the fabrics I bought with my coupon from Fabricland. It is a medium weight knit synthetic of some sort with a bit of lycra. It feels beautiful to the touch and is a nice weight for a fall/winter top, but what I love most is that colour! I would call it a burnt orange, but it is absolutely delicious.
I took the time to trace the grainline because (a) I really like this fabric and didn't want to screw it up and (b) because I thought it would be obvious if it is off grain because of the microscopic striping in the knit. Having said that the striping made it very easy to trace the grainline (actually the cross-grain line) with the use of my lighted magnifying glass.
The other change I made was to shorten the pattern. Now that I have a coverstitch machine I find I only use a 3/4" hem turned once rather than the 1 1/2" hem allowance on knit patterns. So I've shortened the pattern by the extra hem allowance as well as some of the length of the tee because I think it was just a little too long (I did lengthen it an inch when I first traced the pattern). I think the new length looks pretty good here.
I am very happy with this top, except... I didn't put quite enough stretch into the neckband. It gapes a little bit when I bend over and I can notice it gaping even as I just sit here at the computer. I think I will rip it out and do it again. It's definitely a learning curve because each fabric seems to have its own amount of stretch which makes a difference in how long you cut the band. I will report back.
Ok, I'm back lol. It took me about 45 minutes to pick out the old neckline - not bad considering it was serged (4 thread) and topstitched. And I managed not to cut any holes in it! I cut out about 2 1/4" of the neckline, then sewed it back in with a straight stitch (in case it needed to come out again), then sewed a second stitch line and finally topstitched.
Here's the result:
You really can't tell the difference in the pics, but it fits better. It doesn't gape when I lean forward. It has been pressed flat so it will probably gape even less after washing. Also, the neckband has a more consistent width, which is often a challenge for me. So in the end it was worth fixing.